The Semi-Retired Electrician

Do you wish to repair or expand your electrical system or build a new house? If so, arrange your thoughts as follows, before you call someone:

 1 new) Mark up your plans with the location of all the specific equipment such as freezer , computer station, entertainment center, special needs such as invalid or sick care, emergency generator, RV hook-up, auto charging station, hot tub, work bench, garage, basement, pool , attic fans, etc. and any specific electrical characteristics (voltage, current rating) you can provide.

 2 new) Mark up your plan with any area lights, flood lights, recessed lighting, emergency lights etc. Also, note any special controls you would like to consider using; dimmers, room occupancy sensors, timers. Minimum code requires a wall switch controlled lighting outlet in each habitable room; hallway; stairway; attached garage; exterior side entrance doors with grade level access to the home; and any attic, basement, utility room, or crawl space used for storage or equipment. Other lighting and control is permitted, but not required.

 3 new) Mark up your plans with the locations of your phone and TV’s, large screen TV wall locations, surround sound speakers, satellite or cable outlets and controller locations. Think about the media providers such as; Direct TV, Dish network, Charter Cable etc. they all wire up a little differently and it’s much nicer if done during construction rather than tacked on the wall later.

Even if you don’t actually know all of this information before construction begins a blank box with a little bit of wire can save a ton of money later! 

What to ask a prospective electrician:

 1 ask) Are they licensed? Are they up on the latest Code changes? Will any unlicensed persons be allowed to work on your home? How long have they been in business, have they had any lawsuits brought against them? 

 2 ask) Are they insured? Where and how much? Can they provide references? Do they offer a warranty?

 3 ask) If you want to add something after construction begins, what are their rates? When do they require payment? What happens if their work fails inspection or their workmanship is substandard? Do they require “up-front money” to finance their operation? Do they have adequate test and construction equipment? Do they have several other jobs in-progress, can they complete the electrical portion of the job without delaying other crafts?

 4 ask) Try to determine if compliance with adopted code (minimum requirements for the practical safeguarding of persons and property) is a source of aggravation to the potential contractor or if that contractor views the code as an essential starting point and offers additional ideas to protect you, your equipment, and your property.

If a problem exists, consult the following list of common problems before you call for help:

Symptoms of a problem:
1) Lights dim in one section of home but get brighter in another section
2) Sometimes we feel a tingle if touching a faucet and an appliance
3) Sometimes we see lines across our TV or hear buzzing in our radios, sound system or TV.
4) Our Ground Fault receptacles (GFCI) need to be reset often
5) The Arc Fault (AFCI) breakers in our new home need to be reset often
6) The standard 15 amp or 20 amp single space breakers in our home need to be reset often
7) The main breaker trips
8) Horses, cattle or livestock refuse to enter a stall, drink from a watering  station, cows stop giving milk (or amount is greatly reduced).
9) We get a lot of false smoke detector alarms.
10) Several of our kitchen receptacles went dead at the same time
11) Our home seems to get hit by lightning or surges very often. We’ve had to replace a TV, a computer and a heat pump
12) Our home was damaged during a storm and we’re now without electricity
13) We’ve been told our home has aluminum branch circuit wiring. Is this really a problem?
14) Can we replace a ceiling light with a fan and light?
15) Our unlicensed electrician says he can’t finish our project, can another electrician take over?

Possible Causes of  symptoms (above):

Symptom #1) Dimming or brighter than normal lights can be a very serious safety and a costly issue. 

 1a) To save hours of questions and trouble-shooting time try to document exactly when the problem occurs and what lights, appliances or equipment was being used at the time. Also, check with your neighbors and ask if they were having the same problem. It may just be a power company problem and the earlier it get's reported the safer the better.

 1b) If the problem is just in your home and you have a ground rod near your meter tap it lightly with a dry piece of wood. If it is not tight turn off the main breaker and call an electrician to replace it or tighten it. Don't touch it, many people have been electrocuted doing so!
One ground rod is no longer adequate. If your home only has one, adding another is a smart thing to do since grounding is a major cause of problems and cost so little to correct. It should be noted, newer homes don’t have ground rods and rely on an “in-slab” grounding method to stabilize the power in your home.

 1c) If you have the time, draw a simple map of your home showing lights and receptacles. Place the circuit breaker number next to each item. Doing so will save a lot of time finding the problem and will also help you determine if a circuit is overloaded. More than 12 lights or receptacles on a 20A circuit (or more than 10 loads on a 15A circuit) is forbidden in many localities. 

 1d) Lastly, if the problem persists, call an electrician. This type of problem will require sophisticated testing equipment and procedures. 

 Symptom #2) Sometimes we feel a tingle if touching a faucet and an appliance.

 2a) This can be a serious safety issue, especially with persons having soft skin, like women and children around wet or damp areas. Receptacles in these areas are required to be ground fault protected. They do not actually have to have a ground fault device (GFCI) at each outlet but at least need to be protected by one. Some electricians will feed many outlets from a GFCI. Finding out if an outlet is actually protected by a GFCI is easy using a receptacle tester having three lights and a push button. It can be purchased at any hardware store, sells for about $8 and is used extensively by electricians and inspectors to determine if a receptacle has problems. If you find a receptacle in a bathroom, kitchen counter top, basement, garage, outside outlet or washroom is not GFCI protected, an electrician can install one in a matter of minutes and avoid a possible electrocution.

 2b) Check the suggestions in 1a and 1b above.

 2c) If suggestion #2a does not find a problem someone may have driven a nail into a wire or skinned a wire around a pipe or air duct. Finding the problem without test equipment could be dangerous and time consuming and an electrician should be called.

Symptom #3) Sometimes we see lines across our TV or hear buzzing in our radios, sound system or TV.

 3a) This can either be a loose connector on the Radio, TV etc. which is inconvenient and distracting, but easily fixed by the home owner or Satellite /Cable provider. It could also be a problem with the equipment or simply be that a piece of equipment such as a cell or wireless phone is being used too close to another piece of equipment.

Another common problem is using an inferior grade of cable or connector on sensitive electronic equipment. If such a cable is not in a wall it’s easily solved by the homeowner.

 3b) A sensitive piece of electronic equipment, especially an AM radio which is not tuned to a station, is a very good way to find a defective connection or broken wire in a wall. Load up the circuits by turning on lights appliances etc. and simply carry a radio around your home. As you approach a problem area the static on your AM radio will lead you right to it. However, light dimmers are notorious for creating electromagnetic interference (EMI), so you can probably ignore them. If, this method leads you to a standard switch or receptacle or a point on a wall where you just hung a picture, turn off the power to that device and call an electrician. This problem burns houses down!

Symptom #4) Our Ground Fault receptacles (GFCI) need to be reset often

 4a) This can be caused by a faulty; extension cord (or one that is too long), hair dryer (or one clogged with hair) , appliance etc.  In any case if the problem only shows up with a single appliance or cord, that device is probably faulty and should either be repaired or discarded. Don’t simply use it on a non-GFCI receptacle, it may have saved your life!

 4b) Before Jan of 2008 standard ground fault interrupters were allowed in wet locations. It was later found that such units were prone to failure in these applications and devices rated “weather resistant” needed to be specified. Many of these standard GFCI’s are still in use and need to be replaced. Replacement only takes an electrician a few minutes and can save a freezer full of food!

 4c) Many older refrigerators will trip a good GFCI especially during a lightning storm. The 2008 Code however, mandates a GFCI be installed in unfinished basements, a perfect location for that old freezer mom gave you. If you live in a new home you could lose a lot of food due to a tripped GFCI that went unnoticed. 

Symptom #5) The Arc Fault (AFCI) breakers in our new home need to be reset often
 
 5a) Arc fault current interrupters (AFCI) are now required in almost all locations in a home that don’t require GFCI’s. They’re designed to trip if they detect a problem which has been identified as a fire starter. They will not only protect the 15A and 20A house wiring but anything connected to them. They’re very sensitive and have often been blamed for “false trips”. They’ve also been cursed by electricians who don’t wire a new home correctly and can’t keep them from tripping.

Obviously, if an appliance keeps tripping one it’s probably just a bad appliance and the AFCI may have done it's job and saved your life or  home.

 5b) If an AFCI has been working OK for awhile and has started tripping after you just hung a picture (and punctured a wire) or expanded your wiring, it may have done it’s job.

 5c) AFCI’s do go bad and they cost about $40 each but, if the problem is in the wiring a good electrician should be called as these circuits are difficult to trouble-shoot, especially without proper test equipment.

Symptom #6) The standard 15 amp or 20 amp single space breakers in our home needs to be reset often

 6a) This sort of problem could simply be that too much load is being placed on one circuit. A 15A (amp) circuit is only rated for 1800W peak (1440W continuous). and a 20A is rated for 2400W peak and 1920W continuous. A homeowner should read the nameplate on their appliances and be sure the combined load they plug into any particular circuit does not exceed these values.

To know the combined load on a circuit one must know which receptacles are on the same breaker and avoid excessively loading any particular circuit. In a commercial or industrial application the electricians are often required to label each receptacle with the breaker number which feeds it so the end user can avoid plugging everything into the same circuit.

With larger and larger appliances being sold today it is not wise to allow electricians to hook more than twelve receptacles or lights on a 20A circuit or more than ten outlets on a 15A circuit, if they be allowed at all.

 6b) If a breaker trips for reasons other than an obvious overload or vibration because you just banged a nail in the wall next to the power panel one should feel the face of the breaker. If it’s much warmer than the ones next to it an overload exists. If it can’t be determined that too much load is plugged into that circuit, the breaker should be turned off and an electrician called in.

Symptom #7) The main breaker trips

 7) Like 6b (above) there may be a perfectly good reason which can be ignored, the breaker reset and everything is fine. However, if a trip occurs for no good reason, the breaker should not be reset more than once and with extreme caution!

Never reset a main breaker standing and looking right at it. Stand to the side, get everyone out of the room, who is not needed and wear; gloves; long cotton sleeves and pants; shoes/boots. If the cause of the trip was a direct short or lightning strike a tremendous amount of energy may have been expended and this type of breaker could fly out of the panel in a fireball! If in doubt call an electrician.

Symptom #8) Horses, cattle, livestock refuse to enter a stall, drink from a water station, cows stop giving milk (or amount is greatly reduced).

 8a) These are all signs that the animals may be receiving a small shock from the metal around these locations. It has been found that livestock are three times more sensitive than even a baby to electric shock and existing ground fault devices are inadequate in these applications.

The problem is receiving a lot of attention in dairy states such as Wisconsin and large lawsuits have been won by the farmers from the power companies.

Improper grounding of the metal in these locations is the primary culprit but sometimes the cause is not even on the victims land.

Recent changes in the Electrical Code should be addressed by electricians before quoting or starting work on barns & feedlots. If a concrete floor is poured without laying in the required copper mesh, expensive corrections could be required later.

 8b) Tests can be run on existing farms to determine if grounding, receptacles, lighting, fans and electric heaters are adequate.

Symptom #9) We get a lot of false smoke detector alarms.

 9a) Smoke alarm placement is very important. They should be located on every level of a house; in every bedroom; in the area outside every bedroom and in the garage. They should not be located in; attics; wet locations; kitchens; bathrooms; in high airflow areas; in dead airflow areas, such as within 6” of  where the ceiling and wall meets. They should be interconnected so if one goes off, they all sound. Further, they should have their batteries changed once a year (high quality alkaline).

 9b) If a smoke detector alarms don’t automatically assume there is no problem if you don’t find a fire after checking your house. These new detectors are very accurate and will sense a fire much quicker than a person.  A dog however, may bark at a fire before a smoke detector, but they can’t be everywhere and they do chase squirrels.

 9c) If a smoke detector gets clogged with dust or spider webs it may be saved by a good vacuum but should be replaced every ten years.

Symptom #10) Several of our kitchen receptacles went dead at the same time

 10a) Several kitchen countertop receptacles may be legally protected by a single ground fault receptacle (GFCI). These receptacles should be labeled “GFCI Protected”. The GFCI doing the protection should be located where easily found by a homeowner, in case it trips due to a surge, storm or faulty device was plugged into it or a “downstream” receptacle. If the GFCI can’t be reset check the breaker in the power panel, if it tripped the GFCI won’t reset. But if it tripped, the problem may simply be too many appliances were plugged in and it’s not a GFCI problem at all.

Several outdoor receptacles, garage receptacles and washroom receptacles may also be tied together and need to be reset from a remote location! The second bath in a mobile home may also be legally fed from the bath closest to the power panel, but should be labeled as such.

Symptom  #11) Our home seems to get hit by lightning or surges very often. We’ve had to replace a TV, a computer and a heat pump

 11a) Lightning is one of the most unpredictable forces on earth. Some areas receive daily ground strikes and preventing damage to our homes is never perfect. Several methods however, are fairly effective such as; Installing a “whole house” surge protector in the main power panel; using surge protectors at computer and entertainment center locations; driving extra ground rods; installing phone and cable/satellite surge protectors.

 11b) In extreme cases such as homes on hilltops and those in sandy soil, Ben Franklin style lightning rods, additional ground rods or “triodes” or in-ground mesh may be needed. Measuring the effectiveness of a grounding system and designing an effective system requires specialized equipment and training.

 11c) If extensive lightning or surge damage to a home occurs a qualified electrical contractor can often document (and repair) the damage and assist in preparing the claim to the insurance or power company. Taxpayers may also claim the part of the damages not recovered, on their next tax return. 

Symptom #12) Our home was damaged during a storm and we’re now without electricity 

 12a) The first thing to do if a homeowner has fallen wires is to stay away from the wires, call the power company and if the home is without full power an electrician should be called at once. Only half of the lights and receptacles may be without power and all the of 240 volts appliances, such as heat pump, water heater and the range.

The reason to call an electrician soon is that if he arrives before or during the visit by the power company he may be able to correct a problem immediately and keep the meter from being pulled.

 12b) Immediately after a storm; supply houses run out of critical supplies; electricians, inspectors and the power company become very busy and a long waiting lists form. Most electrical contractors carry a small amount of emergency supplies, but it is soon depleted, so being first in line is very important.

 12c)  If the power company comes and spots even a small problem the meter may pulled and will not be replaced until; the problem is corrected; the home is inspected by the town or county; the power company is notified and they can get back to your home. All of this can take anywhere from two days to two weeks.

 12d) If after a large storm and you lost power you may want to buy, rent or have a “loaner” generator hooked up to your home to keep from loosing food, provide lights, run fans and run the TV. Actually, before a storm is the time to prepare. 

Symptom #13) We’ve been told our home has aluminum branch circuit wiring. Is this really a problem? 

 13a) Aluminum wiring which feeds the 15A or 20A lighting and receptacle circuits was legal years ago and unless a homeowner wishes to expand such a circuit is still legal today. Most problems with aluminum wiring reflect poor workmanship, lightning strikes, surges, overloads or  short circuits. Unless such an event occurs the home may not show any signs of a problem.

 13b) However, if a receptacle or switch needs to be replaced or an aluminum wire needs to be spliced to a copper one, the repair or addition requires costly devices or connectors and great care.

Symptom #14) Can we replace a ceiling light with a fan and light?  

 14a) Yes, but the distance from the floor to the blades can’t be less than seven feet; the box in the ceiling may need to be replaced with a “fan rated” one; unless cable from the switch-to-the ceiling box contains three insulated wires, the fan and light will either need be controlled using the chains provided or controlled by a battery powered remote, bought from the fan vendor.

 14b) Other factors to consider are; if the ceiling is sloped, a down rod must be used, so the blades don’t hit the ceiling; if installed on a porch both the fan and the blades must be rated for wet or damp locations; if in a windy area a down rod, long enough to prevent the blades from hitting the ceiling, must be provide.

Symptom #15) Our unlicensed electrician says he can’t finish our project, can another electrician take over?

 15a) Yes, if the “unlicensed” electrician was working under someone else’s license or never pulled a permit, the homeowner will have to call the permit office and authorize the change or apply for a new one.

 15b) The new electrician will have to satisfy himself that the work done by the previous electrician; meets Code; will achieve what the owner would like; corrects any problems; passes inspections.

 15c) To achieve items in 15b (above) costly corrections may be necessary, which points out why calling the right guy the first time is so important.

About the author:

Maurice "Mo" Turgeon, founder of The Semi-Retired Electrician, started a radio repair shop in a garage in his backyard at the age of fifteen, attended a four year electrical/electronic trade school, served on three nuclear submarines as a missile technician for eight years and spent the next thirty years as a supervisor, lead designer and start-up specialist at numerous industrial facilities in the Southeastern United States. He has also authored several articles on instrumentation and taught college level electricity, instrumentation and electronics.
As a licensed Alabama Electrical Contractor, he holds the highest level (master) electrical license in Alabama. Senior member and past president in the Birmingham Section of the Instrument Society of America.

145 Landings Lane
Wilsonville, AL 35186
ph: (205) 669-9812
alt: (205) 482-8982 (cell)
moeturgeon@bellsouth.net
website: www.thesemi-retiredelectrician.com